“I grew up in the small fishing village of Honningsvåg, located at 71 degrees north, just a short drive from the iconic North Cape. My hometown is a place marked by striking contrasts. From mid-November to late January, there is no direct sunlight above the horizon, and for the rest of the winter we only get brief, faint rays that barely reach the ground. However, we experience something truly special in the summer, when the sun doesn’t set for 2.5 months. In winter, we are instead rewarded with the magical dance of the northern lights across the sky, a spectacle that gives the landscape a unique, fairy-tale quality. Growing up, we were taught that teasing the northern lights would make it come down and snatch us, instilling a deep awe for the green light on the night sky.
The polar front, Barents Sea, and arctic climate bring powerful storms and challenging working conditions.
Honningsvåg is surrounded by a rugged landscape. Fishing has always been a cornerstone of the area, where the polar front, Barents Sea, and arctic climate bring powerful storms and challenging working conditions. This small town with its arctic charm is encircled by dramatic fjords and rugged mountains. The nature here is both wild and alluring, and standing on the North Cape plateau can give you a sense of being on the edge of the world. I have always been grateful for growing up in this village, close to both nature and its people. But Honningsvåg is not exempt from Schumpeterian principles of creative destruction, where innovation and economic growth concentrate in larger cities, prompting many young people (myself included) to move to the cities in search of new opportunities. I am lucky that my wife is from the same place, so even though we now live 2000 kilometers away from home, in a city with a climate marked by more stable weather and consistent differences between night and day, we return home as often as we can, especially during Christmas—unless Christmas storms prevent us.”
No camera can do the Christmas atmosphere justice.
Christmas during the polar night and unique traditions
“So, you might wonder, how do we celebrate Christmas in this darkness? Well, I was born into the polar night. Shaped by it. I didn’t see sunlight on Christmas Eve until I was a grown man, and by then, it was nothing but blinding. Christmas in Honningsvåg is marked by the unique atmosphere that the polar night brings, where street lights and Christmas decorations reflected in the snow give the town a warm, contrasting glow against the dark sky.
For many of us in the north, Christmas is a time to gather with family and celebrate what matters most, despite the cold, challenging winter nature.
The days after Christmas are perhaps the most important time, as the whole town dresses in their finest clothes and gathers for a show and celebration put on by local performers. This goes on for several days, and by the time it’s over, you feel mentally ready to head south.”
Where street lights and Christmas decorations reflected in the snow give the town a warm, contrasting glow against the dark sky.
“In Norway, Christmas food varies from region to region: in the west, people often eat pinnekjøtt (cured lamb ribs), while those in the east prefer pork ribs (which is an ongoing, tedious debate every Christmas). In other parts of the country, lutefisk and cod are traditional. Even in Honningsvåg, with its rich fishing culture, we find a blend of these dishes—a mix of traditions created by migration and newcomers.
My own family has held on to western Norwegian traditions from my grandmother, and we eat pinnekjøtt on Christmas Eve. Still, Honningsvåg is a crossroads of traditions, where neighbors on each side might have their own version of the Christmas meal—one with cod and another with pork ribs. This blending shows how Norwegian Christmas traditions merge across regions, reminding us of the diverse culture we share.
Norway is known for its ingredients like fish and root vegetables, but due to the lack of fertile ground for spices, calling traditional Norwegian food a great culinary experience might be stretching it a bit. The food has its charm, but that’s mainly what it has. If you’re going to try traditional Norwegian Christmas food, however, I would recommend pinnekjøtt.
Christmas recipe
“I would recommend pinnekjøtt.”
Traditionally, Norway has had cold and damp winters, and before modern technology, people had to find ways to preserve food. Salting and drying were essential methods to keep meat for longer periods. Pinnekjøtt is lamb or mutton that has been salted and often dried or smoked to increase shelf life. The name comes from the birch sticks (pinner) placed at the bottom of the pot during steaming. These sticks keep the meat above the water, allowing it to steam rather than boil, which preserves the meat’s tenderness and flavor. When preparing pinnekjøtt, it’s easy to go wrong, as the meat can become too salty if it’s not soaked long enough.”
Ingredients:
Pinnekjøtt
Kålrotstappe (Mashed Rutabaga)
Mandelpoteter (Almond Potatoes)
Preparation 1-2 days before
Soaking the Pinnekjøtt:
Preparation:
Steaming the Pinnekjøtt:
Kålrotstappe (Mashed Rutabaga):
Mandelpoteter (Almond Potatoes):
Optional crispy surface: For a crispy texture, place the steamed pinnekjøtt pieces under the grill in the oven for 5-10 minutes, or until golden and crisp.
Serving:
Serve the pinnekjøtt with the kålrotstappe and boiled almond potatoes. A good mustard and a Christmas beer is well suited.
Pro tip:
Eat a bit more than you can handle and wash it down with a good aquavit.
Enjoy and Happy Holidays!